It's cold outside, but that beautiful sunshine is warming our hearts. Could we be in for an equally vibrant First Friday? Stroll around downtown Winslow and see, with friends, wine, appetizers, and naturally, great art.
Here at The Island Gallery we are presenting a textile exhibit:
Sumbanese
Ikats
From the Gallery Collection
March 6 – 29, 2015
Opening Reception:
First Friday, March 6th
6 – 8 pm
In concert:
Ranger and the Re-Arrangers
Featuring ikats from
the Gallery’s Collection of traditional Sumba Island ikats
by noted Sumbanese
weavers and a “magical” double ikat from Tenganan, Bali,
with more
contemporary designs from American textile artist Lou Zeldis,
who also worked in
Indonesia with Sumbanese weavers and dyers.
Event Location: The Island Gallery, 400
Winslow Way E, #120, Bainbridge Island, Washington.
The laborious weaving and dying process used to create traditional ikat textiles is a fascinating and ancient craft, its roots stretching deep into history. Here's a little information:
In
Indonesian and Malay “ikat” means, literally, to knot, and describes a
tie-and-dye process employed by the archipelago’s weavers. Using cotton thread, a mock-up of the warp
(horizontal threads) is constructed on a frame.
Neighboring strands on the frame are then bound together using lengths
of raffia-like palm-leaf fiber. The length of each knot seals a section of
thread and the pattern of knots forms the intended motif. It is from these knots that the technique gets
its name.
Two sets of
knots are used to produce a three-color design.
All knots resist the initial indigo dye and only unknotted areas become
blue. After one set of knots has been opened
the threads are re-dyed red: this dyes the newly exposed white sections an
earthy red, and over-dyes the indigo with red to produce a brown-black. Opening the second set of knots reveals
sections of thread that have received neither dye and will be white in the
woven textile. A pure blue is obtained
by tying a third set of knots over the indigo work before the red dye process
begins.
The indigo blue
is from the young leaves of the leguminous indigo plant (indigofera
tinctoria). The red is made from the
bark of the roots of the morinda tree
(morinda citrifolia). Further
refinements of shade and hue are due to successive immersions in the dye baths
and the inclusion in the dyes of other plant materials to recipes often held
secret by a dyer.
Each set of
threads receives up to a half-a-dozen applications of each dye. Indigo is only collectable during the annual
monsoon when new growth blooms. Conversely,
morinda root is harvested during the dry season when the dye-bearing sap
retreats into the roots. To achieve a
deep saturation of color the dyer will often need to work though several
seasons across a number of years.
Completed dye-lots are often stored for further years since the longer
the threads are kept, the richer the final colors may become.
The weaving itself is done on a continuous-warp
back-strap loom. The arrangement of the
warp on the loom, around the breast and warp beams, replicates its orientation
on the warping frame and recreates the intended pattern. A single-color weft is then used for weaving.
And what do we mean by a "magical" cloth, you might ask? Read on.
|
Geringsing detail. Tenganan, Bali |
Of all the spectacular textiles produced in Southeast Asia, the rarest and most intricate are the
sacred Geringsings of Tenganan.
This
eastern Bali village is one of only three
places in the world where textiles are traditionally made using the elaborate
double ikat patterning technique. Though other forms of ikat were probably
imported from India,
Geringsing textile weaving is thought to have originated solely in Tenganan. To
support this theory, nowhere else in Indonesia is this intensely
time-consuming and jealously-guarded process practiced.
The cloth is made of natural fibers and natural
dyes, which are red and reddish-brown tones made of the root sunti, yellow made of kemiri fruit and blue or blue-black made
of taum (indigo). The design is
obtained by a double-tie process; that is, the threads of both the warp and the
weft are patterned prior to the weaving.
Once the piece is completely woven on a back-strap loom, the geometric
repetitive patterns must interlock in exactly the same place, in order for the
fabric to have any aesthetic value or meaning.
Only a very small number of woman weavers still know how to weave Geringsing
textiles. Because of the intricacy of the work, to make a good quality
Geringsing takes from five to eight years. Part of the reason for this time
frame is that Geringsing can only be worked on during special days according to
the wuku calendar (the wuku calendar sets out dates for
festivals and has 10 different weeks, each from one to 10 days and all running
simultaneously). Geringsing are worn as sashes in everyday wear; however, on
festival days women dress in them from head to toe. No rite of passage may be carried out without
the obligatory wearing of Geringsing textiles. According to Balinese belief
these rare cloths have protective powers, especially the ability to ward off
evil and sickness, and to preserve the wearer from harm. Indeed, the word ‘Geringsing’ is derived from
the word ‘gering’, meaning ‘pestilence’ or ‘plague’, and the word ‘sing’,
meaning ‘without’.
Come visit us to view these amazing pieces of art. The exhibit runs through March 27th.